El Majestic, para muchos el café más bonito del mundo

| 1.198 Comments

Empezamos el 2011 con un nuevo lujo y aquí al lado: El Majestic de Porto. Les cuento. Apelando al concepto de Steiner de la idea de que Europa está compuesta por cafés, este podría ser uno de ellos.

Dicen que la historia de los cafés de Porto está sin escribir. Son instituciones que después de más de un siglo continúan con vida en la ciudad. Entre todos ellos, el Majestic es uno de los emblemas, de las señas de identidad. Su historia comenzó el 17 de diciembre de 1921,un día que ha quedado marcado en la historia de la ciudad,cuando João Queiros abría en la céntrica Rua Santa Caterina, con una inversión nunca vista hasta el momento en una cafetería, un lujoso local de modelo parisino llamado Elite, que a los pocos meses, bajo el nombre de Majestic, se convertiría en el centro de la burguesía y aristocracia de aquel Porto de la Belle Epoque.

Su fachada era el umbral de uno de los más notables ejemplares de la arquitectura comercial de la pujante y céntrica Rua Santa Caterina, una de las más antiguas de extramuros. A partir de julio de 1922, y ya con el nombre de Majestic, el nuevo café no hacía sino seguir una tradición iniciad desde mediados del XIX. Aún a sabiendas de que sería tan largo cominjusto destacar algunos de los cafés que le precedieron, entre ellos estaban el Lusitano (1853), posteriormente convertido en el Portuense, que más tarde se transformó en el Suizo, o el Chave deOuro.

Pero entre todos ellos, las paredes del Majestic le hanconvertido en algomás que un café, considerado patrimonio cultural, ha competido por osstentar el título de café más bello del mundo. Es el mejor retrato de las tertulias de artistas y los debates en torno a cafés en livianos vasos de cristal,en sus salones y en aquella incontestable terraza que se elevaba en las traseras sobre la Rua de Passos Manuel.Por sus bancos discurría la intelectualidad de la ciudad con nombres como Amadeo Sousa Cardoso, José Regio, o el filósofo Leonardo Coimbra.

Aún hoy, el Majestic es uno de los foros de reunión preferidos porlos estudiantes de Bellas Artes de la ciudad. En su libro de honor han firmado personajes ilustres de nuestros días como António Guterres, Cavaco Silva, Mário Soares o Jacques Chirac. Pero, a pesar de todo, con el paso de los años y el cambio de los gustos yde las modas,el Majestic, al igual que otros establecimientos de sus características también entró en declive.

El 31 de agosto de 1981 se decreta como inmueble de interés público y patrimonio cultural de Oporto. En 1984, sus nuevos propietarios se plantearon devolverle el esplendor perdido, pero será a principios de la década de los 90 cuando comenzaba la restauración de un local que había caído en el olvido. Actualmente ha recobrado vida,
y el ambiente es siempre difícil de describir.
El visitante accede a una gran sala rectangular con bancos corridos en ambos lados al frente de los cuales hay mesas y sillas, forradas en cuero, con incrustaciones en mármol.
Los techos de  yeso, con lámparas de grandes dimensiones, están minuciosamente trabajados. En las paredes hay
magníficos espejos de cristal, llegados de Amberes y el suelo es de mármol.  Un gran piano completa el ambiente.

Recuerdo que la primera vez que visité el Majestic me impresionó un excéntrico personaje con levita,monóculo y bastón dorado, que participaba en las conversaciones de los clientes, trasladándolos a épocas ya pasadas.
Era como el escaparate de una historia perdida más de cien años de tertulias, modas, movimientos literariosypolíticos.

¿Y la clientela del siglo XXI? El nuevo Majestic tiene una clientela heterogenea, que comprende desde los turistas y curiosos a aquellos portuenses que no quieren perder la costumbre de degustar un buen café –atención, cierra los domingos–, pasando por ser un escenario de excepción para recitales de poesía, conciertos de piano o exposiciones de pintura. Sigue siendo un privilegio también para aquellos clientes que quieren almorzar en uno de
sus salones: el precio medio de una ensalada es de 8,50 euros, el de un sandwich 4,40 y la carta de cafés empieza en 1,25 euros.

Porto no sería el mismo sin Boavista, los vinos de su Ribeira, el casco antiguo o la estación de ferrocarril, pero peregrinar por los cafés de la ciudad es reencontrarse con uno de los factores de su identidad. No se lo pierdan. 

Y como nada es casual, ocho años después, en 1929, se inauguró el Derby de Santiago. Allí haremos una escala especial. Estén atentos.

1.198 Comments

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